Conosco I Miei Polli

It sounds sad to admit, but one of my major motivations behind studying abroad in Italy was to eat the best gelato in the world. I am obsessed with ice cream and eat it almost everyday; so, naturally I have made it my mission to find the best gelato in Rome, and I think I have done it.

The first gelato I sampled was at a small hole in the wall gelateria in Trastevere (it was so bad the name isn’t even worth mentioning). I was adventurous with my order: basil and honey gelato with chunks of walnut, and learned quickly that I made a mistake. The gelato was grainy and watery, and the basil was so overpowering it gave me a headache; it is safe to say that I was filled with disappointment.

The next afternoon before history class, I decided to check out Piazza Navona, a square lined with trattorias, monuments, and churches. At the back of the Piazza is a gelateria called Grom, which is essentially the Starbuks of gelato. However, as ignorant tourists do, we saw the cute shop, got excited to dig into “authentic” gelato, and ventured in.

The gelato at Grom is fine. The baccio (chocolate and hazelnut) I received was creamy and rich, and the pistachio was light and nutty. The staff there are professional, but speak English perfectly, indicating that I had stepped into a tourist trap. While the gelato at Grom is good, if you are looking for an authentic gelateria go somewhere else.

After the first few days I started to think that American ice cream was superior to gelato which led me to question my self-proclaimed food snob status. I knew there had to be better gelato out there than a half rate chain, so I continued my quest. Finally, after a day of shopping, I stumbled upon Giolitti and met the gelato of my dreams.

When I first walked in I was immediately brought back to the Charmery in Baltimore, my nostrils were flooded with the aroma of chocolate and baked goods and I knew I was in for a treat. The store has an open floor plan, cases with hot food and pastries, and a long counter with dozens of flavors. The site is clearly a tourist destination, with long lines and a credit card machine; however, the gelato is so good, it deserves the hype. I placed my order: gnutella, pistachio, and baccio with whipped cream.

The baccio and pistachio were delicious, especially when they swirled together. It was nutty, creamy, the perfect texture, and absolutely delightful. However, the flavor that really takes Giolitti above and beyond the rest is the gnutella, their homemade chocolate hazelnut spread. It is decadent chocolate heaven, with the softest, silkiest texture that coats your tongue and is just absolutely incredible. There have been a few occassions in my life where food has made me cry, and sampling this gnutella gelato brought me to tears. It is seriously the best.

So, after kissing some frogs, I finally found my perfect gelato at Giolitti. After being a regular for the last two months, the men behind the counter know my order and my waistline has grown; was it worth it? Absolutely.

San Gimignano is known for more than just delicious classical Tuscan dishes; it is also famous for Gelateria Dondoli, a tiny gelateria tucked into the heart of the city with brisk service, lots of flavor options, and a very long line. It has won the world championship of Gelato four times, soI decided I couldn’t pass it up and dug in.

The three flavors I sampled were stracciatella (chocolate chip), baccio (chocolate and hazelnut), and pistachio. All three were rich and creamy, and had deep flavor profiles that were perfectly adequate. While I indulged, I tried to figure out what was wrong with them. I couldn’t come up with any criticism. 

The baccio had a velvety quality and melted in my mouth almost instantaneously. The chocolate flavor was decadent, but did not overpower the notes of hazelnut. The pistachio was perfectly adequate: nutty, crunchy, smooth; it was everything one could hope for. The stracciatella was less memorable, the vanilla seemed to melt to water instead of cream and there could have been more chocolate.

While all of the ice cream I sampled had no major flaws, I kept asking myself what made this ice cream special or different: I couldn’t think of anything. Yes, they were all good, but none of them were any different or better than the gelato I think is the best in the world at Giolitti.

Giolitti is a famous gelateria in Rome and it has the best gelato in the world, but there’s more to come on that later.

There are few things more beautiful than the rolling green hills and vineyards that make up the Italian region of Tuscany. There, you will find castles, leather, chianti, and some of the most delicious and down to Earth cuisine in all of Europe.

After spending an afternoon at Castello del Trebbio, a 12th century castle turned vineyard, my friends and I felt we were turning into experts of the Tuscan lifestyle and indulged in a meal authentic to the region. We went to a small city called San Gimignano which has some of the most beautiful views and delicious food in Tuscany.

For those of you who don’t know, Tuscany is most famous for tartuffo (truffles) and game meats, think venison, rabbit, goose, and wild boar. While some of the gamier cuts seem a little intimidating, they are all rich in flavors and behold a unique complexity that should be experienced at least once in a lifetime, specifically if you ever find yourself in Tuscany.

We went to dinner at a small restaurant called Antica Macelleria and indulged. For my primi piatti I ordered the ravioli. The pasta was traditionally stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese; however, the sauce is what made this dish special; gorgonzola cheese with walnuts and pears. Generally, I stay away from cheese based sauces because they are usually heavy and saturated with extra fat and cream; however, this sauce was light and the gorgonzola provided just enough bite to balance out the cream, and the pear provided a sweetness that worked well with the savory qualities of the spinach and the different cheeses; the walnuts added just the right pop of texture, which made it impossible to eat only one.

Then, for my secondi, I had rabbit stewed with tomatoes and peppers. The meat was tender and succulent, and the tomato sauce was plump, succulent, and had just enough spice. However, the real star of the table was the spaghetti with truffles that my friend ordered. The sauce was rich with cream and balanced perfectly by the earthy depth of the truffles. It was sinfully delicious.

So, if ever you find yourself in a place with new delicacies, try them. You never know, rabbit and truffles may just be your new favorite food.

Sorrento is a beautiful city along Italy’s Amalfi Coast most famous for it’s lively nightlife and incredible mediterranean views. Since the beaches are mostly volcanic ash, the best way to soak in the gorgeous views are by renting a boat and cruising between Sorrento and the Island of Capri.

When my friends and I arrived to Sorrento without a boat reservation we were overwhelmed with stress. We knew we wanted to find a boat, and the search took all hands on deck; however, when we arrived at the Sorrento Marina we were surprised to find that there were tons of great options available.  After discussing many possible options, we ended up renting a boat with a captain and first mate that only cost us each about 60 euros (75USD). I’m sure most of us would have agreed that these sixty euros would be the best we had ever spent.

While for some college kids $75 is a lot of money, the boat trip had views that were absolutely worth every penny (and then some). The crystal blue waters of the Mediterranean are picturesque, unpolluted, and were perfectly refreshing. They cooled us from the heat of the September sun, which is still hot in the end of the season, and made us all as cool as a cucumber.

What made this trip so incredible, besides the spectacular views, was getting to swim along the shores of Capri. We spent hours hopping off the bow of the ship laughing, and enjoying each other’s company; it was truly magical. Swimming, splashing, and enjoying the waves with new friends at the very beginning of the semester was the perfect combination.

Although our group never really suffered from an awkward paralysis we were not close friends in the beginning. Not many of us new each other well and we were still a bit reserved with one another. However, after this boat trip our friendships had been set in stone.

I laughed on this boat, I danced on this boat, I drank some warm and kind of disgusting champagne on this boat, I lived freely and didn’t care if people were being judgmental. I lived my best, most uninhibited life. I never would have been able to do that for the rest of my time in Rome had it not been for this trip early on. Where strangers became friends which would eventually lead to family. I can say confidently that this trip was the beginning of our quirky little, at times dysfunctional family.

By the time the boat pulled back into the Marina we were all exhausted but completely fulfilled. We agreed that we all peaked in life and that no weekend would ever be as perfect as this day in Sorrento. So, if you want to have the best day of your life, fill it with good friends, good views, and you won’t regret it. (Disclaimer: Unless you get sea sick, then you just might get nauseous)

I’m a lover of all things breakfast: bacon, eggs, pancakes, french toast, it is impossible to name an American breakfast food I do not love. After working at a Long Island bagel store, I have garnered the right to say I make delicious breakfast food. So, then how is it possible that I, an American breakfast food aficionado, think the way Italians do breakfast is superior to Americans after being here for only three weeks?

Well, for starters the selections of breakfast foods in Rome are very different in the states. Here, if you go to a bar  (like a cafe, but much more on the go) for breakfast and try to order a bacon, egg and gouda ala starbucks the barista will most likely scowl at you, mumble something nonsensical to you (because it’s obviously in Italian) and help whoever else is at the counter (I would say who is next in line, but line’s do not exist in Italy. It’s very stressful).

Classic Roman breakfasts consist of two things: cafe (espresso, macchiato, cappuccino) and a cornetto (croissant that is plain or filled with chocolate, cream, or jelly). Some Romans may even skip the cornetto and opt to eat a simple piece of bread or small bowl of corn flakes instead.

Every morning, I walk into the kitchen and eat a small bowl of corn flakes or a piece of toast with butter and the best raspberry jam I’ve ever tasted. I get on the bus, and make sure I have enough time to pop into the bar next to school and get a macchiato (espresso with a little milk on top) before I have to go to Italian. 

At first, it was difficult for me to avoid feeling a bit peckish at around 11:30. However, I have since gotten used to eating a tiny breakfast, and want to make this a permanent habit. I feel energized all morning by the espresso, and have just enough food in my stomach to tide me over for lunch. Even though breakfast isn’t hardy or an event I look forward to, the way I feel after changing my eating habit has changed my outlook on food and nutrition greatly.

It isn’t always necessary to eat huge meals; having an indulgent breakfast from time to time is a great treat, but I can no longer justify it every day. In fact, I find that treating myself later in the day (like with the gnutella gelato from Giolitti) is much more satisfying. I’m excited to see how living in Rome will continue to change my habits, and am exciting to treat myself on Friday with some world class gelato.